Spring and Summer Maintenance

Tips for the best lawn in the street

MUST DO'S - 1 2 3 4 5

1. Turn on the Water

As the warmer weather approaches and the rains reduce, you need to turn your sprinklers back on.

Deep Watering and a Deep Root System
Our aim here is to create a root system which is much deeper than what the lawn would otherwise have under normal conditions. With a deeper root system, the roots of the turf are less likely to dry out and die on hot summer days, or at times of drought or minimum water application.

Prior to the super hot days, the way this is done is to water the lawn less often, and more deeply. Aim to reduce watering frequencies to half of normal or even less, and when the lawn finally begins to start looking slightly wilted, it's time to give the lawn an otherwise larger drink of water than what we may normally do.

In this way, the lawn's roots will continue to travel deeper into the soil profile, where they are safe from summer heat, and where there is an abundant supply of water which resides below the soil evaporation level.

As the temperature rises you do need to increase the amount of water your turf is receiving though.

CLICK HERE to view our Watering Guide for seasonal rates.
In order to know how much water your reticulation system or sprinklers are applying, you need to measure its output. All you need is an empty ice cream container with a 10mm mark on the inside of the container. Place container on the lawn, turn the sprinklers on and time how long it takes to gather 10mm of water in the container. This is the correct time for that station on your controller or sprinkler. Check your sprinklers’ overlap on different spots around your lawn. Make sure you get an even coverage so that no spots get less than 10mm in that time. This may mean some spots get more than 10mm. We do have a supply of catch cups that you are welcome to collect for measurement of your sprinkler output rates.

Check that your sprinklers are working correctly:

RETICULATION REPAIR AND MAINTENANCE

TIP 1. TURN IT ON AND TAKE NOTE: DIRECTION

Are sections of your lawn or garden beds not being watered? If this is the case, you may need to adjust the corresponding sprinkler head to make sure it is spraying in the right direction.

RETICULATION REPAIR AND MAINTENANCE

TIP 2. TURN IT ON AND TAKE NOTE: ARE THEY SPRAYING?

Are any of your sprinkler heads not spraying correctly? This may be due to low water pressure, or quite often the sprinkler heads become blocked. Remove the sprinkler head and try flushing them through with the hose or under a tap, then test the system again to check they spray.

RETICULATION REPAIR AND MAINTENANCE

TIP 3. TURN IT ON AND TAKE NOTE: WATER POOLING?

Are there areas of very heavy water flow or puddling? If the answer is yes, it means you are probably looking at a broken sprinkler head. It is time to visit your local reticulation supplier to buy a replacement!

RETICULATION REPAIR AND MAINTENANCE

TIP 4. A TIP FROM THE PRO'S

Sprinklers can be hard to find once they have been turned off. To make your maintenance job easier, mark the sprinkler heads while they are on using small flags or coloured pegs.

RETICULATION REPAIR AND MAINTENANCE

TIP 5. HOME READING

Always refer to the information provided by the supplier and manufacturer of your sprinkler heads before taking on your retic maintenance. There are many variations between brands, so it pays to be informed to prevent unnecessary problems.

RETICULATION REPAIRS AND MAINTENANCE TIP 6. CALL IN A PROFESSIONAL
If you don’t feel confident to take on the repairs and maintenance yourself, there are plenty of reticulation specialists in the south west that can help. Contact us for some recommendations.

2. Apply a Wetting Agent

Spring is a great time to apply a wetting agent, especially one like BI-AGRA or ECO-WET that also have some water retention capabilities.

Poor Drainage in Soil.

The above photo indicates poor drainage in your soil. This happens in winter when heavy rain separates the large particles from the small silt. The silt rises to the top causing a film of airless mud. If left untreated, it will suffocate the roots of your turf and cause it to rot, as it is depicted by the brown dead areas in the above picture.

Worms do their part to help you aerate the soil by coming to the surface and mixing the soil through. You can also help your lawn by adding a wetting agent to break down the film and restore healthy drainage.

BI-AGRA helps in combating water repellent problems in your lawn. It has two components, a wetting agent for spreading water evenly throughout the soil, and a moisture retaining component to hold the water in the soil. BI-AGRA penetrates dry lifeless soil and binds with its molecules. Once water is applied, BI-AGRA helps to evenly distribute the water and hold on to it, keeping it at the root area of your turf much longer than untreated soil. It is specially made to aid in the twice a week watering restrictions.

BI-AGRA was researched and developed in WA for our conditions. It is produced by SST Australia which is the largest supplier of commercial grade wetting agent in Australia.

Improves water distribution and uniformity, helping to reduce that blotchy look often apparent in domestic lawns.
BI-AGRA is long lasting with research showing it is still effective up to 12 months after application.
Aids in reducing the frequency of irrigation. It is an easy hose on application that is environmentally friendly.
BI-AGRA can be seen working just three weeks after application.
It will improve your lawn’s appearance compared to an untreated lawn.
BI-AGRA should be used as a curative treatment on severely water repellent soils to assist with the rewetting of dry root zones.
Reduces evaporation by holding onto moisture in the soil and allowing better use of the twice per week irrigation restrictions we have in WA.
Also great for garden beds. Do not spray directly on flowers and shrubs, as the foliage may burn.
Water in well after application

SUITABLE FOR: All lawn types

2L – treats 150m²

ECO-WET

Environmentally Friendly Long Lasting Soil Wetter for: Greens, Fairways, Ovals, Turf production, Home Gardens & Horticulture Designed for FAST:

Water penetration
Water retention
Water spread to stop channelling
re-Wetting, in arid conditions

Not just a Soil Wetter; also Enhances:

Fertiliser retention (↑CEC)
Soil structure & promotes biological activity Suited for environmentally sensitive areas

ECO-WET is a quick acting formulation that enhances soil structure to maintain long lasting wet-ability in waxy sands, heavy clays and normally water repellent soils. Small amounts of waxy glycocalix binds sand particles together. This is normal in healthy soil, allowing formation of soil aggregates, water penetration, nutrient transfer etc. However, if the waxy layer becomes too advanced, a waterproof skin forms over the surface of the soil. “ECO-WET” helps amend the water-repellent “waxy” layer on the soil surface, thereby allowing moisture to soak into the ground and spread through the top soil. As a result, enhanced biological activity can improve soil structure and overall wetting and continued re-wetting.

ECO-WET differs from normal wetters, containing organic certified polymers, which physically improves the soil structure. The added humus acts like a sponge, creating a long term wetting effect often lasting for a prolonged period.

SUITABLE FOR: All lawn types

1L Treats 330m²

5L Treats 1,666m²

20L Treats 6,660m²

3. Fertilise

Fertiliser applied in early spring will help the lawn recover quickly from winter dormancy, and resist the establishment of summer weeds. Fertiliser should always be applied when the leaf of the lawn is quite dry, and watered in immediately. Avoid fertilising on very hot days. If lawns are overfed, they become too lush; promoting thatching, diseases and other problems. They also need more frequent mowing. However, as a general rule, fertilise at a rate of 3kg per 100m² (30g per m²) every 6-8 weeks.

CLICK HERE for our recommended Eco Prime Emerald.
Eco Prime Emerald is a wonderful fertilising product, promoting the natural good fungal spores in your soil to come to life, stopping soil compaction and releasing food for your lawn’s roots. A rock mineral fertiliser, derived from natural volcanic and sedimentary deposits, containing some of nature’s richest soil building materials. Eco Prime Emerald contains excellent micro-elements which are beneficial soil microbes, and are naturally slow to release and non-leaching. These intelligent fertilisers use microbes to gradually make the minerals available to your plant roots, essential for good healthy growth, and to help create deep roots. Your lawn will stress less in warmer weather with a healthy root system.

4. Weed Control

Weeds are the greatest pest problem facing the home gardener. Most lawn weeds are opportunistic and quickly take over areas that have become thinned as a result of poor maintenance or inadequate growing conditions. Weeds are fast to germinate, grow and spread. Once weeds are well established, there is little chance that the lawn will be able to out-compete them without you coming to the rescue. To help you find the right remedy to control your weed problem, email a picture to info@trueblueturf.com.au We can help identify and provide the best advice on what to use for your particular variety of turf. Buffalo can be sensitive to regular spray treatments.
READ MORE

Below are our 2 most popular products in weed control for True Blue Turf's home lawn enthusiasts:

Pre-Emergent:

Post-Emergent - Broad Leaf Weed Control:

5. Mowing

The first change to lawn mowing in spring should be the mowing heights. If the lawn is in excellent health and water is not an issue, then lawn mowing heights can safely be lowered, as this time of year is approaching peak growing season and the lawn can easily cope and repair with a shorter leaf.

However, and this is a BIG however…. if the lawn is subject to heavy water restrictions and may experience drought-like conditions, then the lawn mowing height should be INCREASED. This will allow the lawn leaf and thatch layer to insulate the soil against heavy water loss from evaporation, and the end result will be greater lawn health whilst using less water as summer progresses.

Lastly, mow the lawn regularly during summer. Healthy, regularly mowed lawns will result in more green leaf with less weeds and less invasion of the grass into surrounding garden beds. Regular mowing will also ensure the lawn is not scalped by removing too much green leaf in a single mow, as this can easily kill sections of lawn which are under stress of the summer heat.

When you mow, ensure to maintain sufficient leaf cover for photosynthesis. This allows rapid recovery, keeps the soil cool, protects the roots from scorching and suppresses weeds. Fine grass should be cut shorter than coarse grasses. We recommend the following mowing heights; Wintergreen Couch between 12mm and 20mm. Kikuyu, Kenda, Nara & Empire Zoysia between 15mm and 30mm. Sapphire Buffalo between 30mm and 50mm:

Mowing too short in summer leads to sun scorching and root damage. Mowing heights can be set to the lower height in summer, fine grass should be cut shorter than coarse grasses. The aim is to remove no more than ⅓ of the leaf material at any one time.

If grass is allowed to grow too long between mowing, it will expose stems giving a scalped, patchy and brown appearance. Recovery from scalping will be slow and weed growth will be encouraged. Frequency of cutting depends on your lawn variety, how well it is growing, and the time of year. Lawn grasses recommended for WA conditions grow rapidly in summer and slower in winter. After mowing, clippings should be removed from your lawn. A large amount of clippings can prevent the air, water and sunlight getting to your turf and it can start to rot.

IF REQUIRED - 6 7 8

6. Dethatch

Watering a heavily thatched lawn will result in a lot of the water remaining in the thatch layer of the lawn. The end result is that less water reaches the soil to maintain the health of the lawn, and instead simply evaporates away in the heat of the day. This problem is further compounded when the lawn is being watered at night, which provides a perfect breeding environment for lawn diseases.

Lawns, in particular couch should be de-thatched (vertimowed) whenever necessary, and done in spring preferably, however dethatching can be done during summer as long as sufficient water is applied after.

To dethatch, first apply Eco Prime Emerald, after 3 weeks mow as close as possible to the ground.
(For buffalo owners: stop at this step. Do not vertimow buffalo! Instead, drop your mowing height down lower and lower at every pass, decreasing height and thatch to ground level).
To remove thatch from a very small lawn, use a thatching rake, which will slice into the lawn and bring up vast amounts of dead material. Rake in one direction to prevent damaging grass roots. The more practical and effective method is to rent a machine called a dethatcher or vertimower. Make at least two passes over the lawn with the dethatcher to get all the thatch. Make the second pass at a 90-degree angle to the first. Once you remove the thatch layer, clean the lawn with a metal leaf rake. Remove all waste. Vertimowing can be performed on Nara, Empire, Kikuyu, Kenda and Wintergreen Couch. Once again, do not vertimow Sapphire Buffalo or any other buffalo variety.

7. Aerate

In extreme cases you will need to aerate your lawn to create holes to allow the roots of your turf to breathe.

Step 1: Determine the Need for Lawn Aeration

If you have noticed that your grass isn't looking its best or that water has difficulty penetrating through the soil surface, it may be time to aerate your lawn. Clay soils and lawns that bear heavy foot and vehicle traffic are especially notorious for needing aeration as they become compacted over time. Using a shovel, dig a 300mm² section of grass about 150mm deep and examine. If the grass roots don't extend further than 50mm deep into the soil, your lawn would benefit from aeration.

Step 2: Prepare the Lawn for Aeration

Water the lawn thoroughly one to two days prior to aerating your lawn. Apply at least 25mm of water to the grass. All you need is an empty ice cream container with a 25mm mark on the inside of the container. Place container on the lawn, turn the sprinklers on and time how long it takes to gather 25mm of water in the container. Watering the lawn will help the aerator penetrate the soil and pull out soil cores easier. To avoid damaging sprinklers and hidden objects in this area, we recommend you mark these areas with flags to avoid them when operating the aerator over this area. If you do not have an irrigation system, use a garden hose and sprinkler to water the lawn.

Step 3: Aerate the Lawn

Run the core aerator over the lawn in a pattern that covers the area only once.
Note: A mechanical core aerator is the best equipment to use for aeration. The tines on this type of machine are hollow on the inside so that they pull soil cores out of the earth. Other aerators such as those with spikes don't work as well and may actually further compact soils. You can rent core aerators from most trade hiring places. Enlist the help of a couple of friends and a ute or trailer when picking up the equipment as it can be heavy and awkward. Read the operator's manual carefully prior to use. Alternatively, you may find a local contractor that offers aeration services in your area.

Step 4: Apply Compost or Sand

The soil cores can be left on the ground after aeration and allowed to decompose, or rake them into piles and throw in the compost bin. However, this isn't necessary as it should take about two to four weeks for the soil cores to break down naturally. Sprinkle compost (sand or peat moss can be used instead of compost) over the lawn to fill in the holes.
After aeration, apply a wetting agent and fertiliser to lawns as this is an ideal time to do so. You will see results become evident about three months after the process.

8. Top-dress

Reasons For Top Dressing Lawns

Top dressing lawns in lawn care should only ever be applied for two reasons; to level small indentations in the lawn and to add special nutrient mixes to the lawn.

Levelling Lawn Indentations

Using either existing soil from the property or clean sand, small indentations of the lawn can be filled in, compacted, watered, and levelled off to the same height as the surrounding lawn using a straight edge. Be sure to properly water the sand or soil during application to wash it into and between all the small spaces in the lawn. After top dressing, new shoots and runners will emerge from the lawn area which was top dressed, raising the height of the affected area to the same as the surrounding lawn.

Nutrient Mixes

Some lawn fertiliser companies have recently developed and released special soil mixes designed to be top dressed on the lawn. The purpose of these mixes is to supply quality organic material into the lawn in place of fertiliser. These rich soil mixes can be a great choice in many lawn care regimens. Do not use these soil mixes to level indentations, or layer it on top of the lawn. The lawn nutrient mix is applied lightly and raked into the lawn, and then watered; it’s that simple. For the best results with the product of choice, make sure you follow the manufacturer's instructions.

One recommended product is: Superfine Sports Turf Top-Dress:

Superfine Sports Turf Top-Dress restores turf vitality and encourages deeper root growth that makes turf stronger, safer and more efficient at using water and nutrients to sustain a lush green playing surface. Superfine Sports Turf Top-Dress penetrates the root zone with nutrient rich organic carbon to feed turf growth and stimulate beneficial microbes in the soil that improve nutrient uptake and provide natural competition to suppress pests and disease.

Benefits:

Restores capacity in turf to bounce back faster after use.
Creates softer, more resilient turf for improved player safety.
Significantly improves soil water infiltration and storage.
Improves nutrient availability, reducing fertiliser use significantly.
Maintains natural suppression of pests and disease.
Reduces demand on irrigation, chemicals and manpower.
Provides greater safety and enjoyment to the community.

Application:

Superfine Sports Turf Top-Dress is a superfine top dress treatment for turf that rapidly penetrates the soil through the action of water and biological activity. On large scale treatment areas, apply by belt spreader and rake or rub into turf surface, then irrigate thoroughly. For spot treatment of smaller areas, spread manually and rake into the surface, then water thoroughly.

Superfine Sports Turf Top-Dress is a special renovating mix for levelling and restoring amenity turf surfaces, also available for turf professionals in bulk.

SUGGESTED PROGRAMS

Restoring Old Turf:

After turf renovation, top dress a 5-10mm thick layer of Superfine Sports Turf Top-Dress over surface, then level and irrigate thoroughly to assist penetration. For levelling and rejuvenating turf surfaces, spread Superfine Sports Turf Top-Dress at 10- 20mm thick over treatment area then level and irrigate thoroughly to assist penetration.

Treating Sting Nematode:

For large scale infested areas, apply 5-10mm of Superfine Sports Turf Top-Dress across the whole area and rake or rub into surface, then water thoroughly to assist penetration. For smaller outbreaks, apply localised spot treatments to suppress activity. Do not apply chemical control methods or use high fertiliser rates when using Sports treatment as this would potentially suppress beneficial microbes.

Maintenance Applications:

To maintain turf vitality and protection from pests and disease, apply 2-5mm layer of Sports in Spring and Autumn or any other time as required and simply rub or rake into surface, then irrigate thoroughly.

How To Level Large Lawn Indentations

Where the indentations are large or deeper than about 50mm, the lawn may die of suffocation from the top dressing process and will not send out new shoots and runners to repair the area. This creates two possible problems.

1. The first is that a dead layer of lawn thatch and roots will be left behind which can become an area of water logging. This thatch layer may also become obtrusive and prevent the recovered lawn area from developing and maintaining a healthy root system; resulting in poor lawn health for many years to come. Eventually the area may need to be repaired again.

2. As the existing lawn will be buried beneath more than 50mm of sand, the surrounding lawn will need to spread across to re-cover the area. This may take a very long time, with an unsightly lawn, and risking ongoing damage from wear and invasion of weeds and other lawn varieties. This will result in further delaying or preventing any recovery of the affected lawn.

The proper solution is to raise the lawn, which simply means to dig out the affected lawn and put down a lawn mix in the indentation, and then re-lay the lawn on top.

By removing the lawn in strips like roll on turf is done, the job becomes much easier and cleaner, and can be done easily with a spade. After re-installing the turf strips, lightly top dress the lawn to finish the evening out process and the job will be finished.

Lawn Recovery Times

Recovery times depend on the time of year when the lawn repair is done and how well the lawn is being looked after in that time. A few weeks to a couple of months should complete most repairs.

When To Resume Lawn Mowing

After repairs, mowing of the area should not be resumed until the lawn has set down adequate roots for recovery. Mow no sooner than two weeks from installation. Check to see the roots have taken hold in the soil by lifting the edge of a roll or two. Once you cannot lift the roll, it has taken root, and is ready for mowing.

The Best Time Of Year To Top Dress Lawns

Any time in the active growing season is fine for top dressing indentations and light top dressing with soil mixes, from the beginning of spring through to a month or two before winter.

Can The Homeowner Do It Themselves?

Yes. It’s really a simple process.

Lawn Care Myth

The old practice of top dressing lawns with sand when there are no indentations serves no benefit to lawns whatsoever. The result of this continuing practice will only raise the lawn higher and create layers of sand and thatch that will only ever have a detrimental impact on lawn health.